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| Local monks at Thikse Monastery |
The next morning I wake up early as I normally do and head to the rooftop of the hotel, which I have noticed has some space where I can practice yoga and meditation. I started meditating regularly (or should I say concentrating on my breath as I am still in the anapana phase) for about 6 months now and I can see how dramatically my life has changed in only 6 months. I have a lot more energy, I am more present and awake. The combination of meditation, yoga and diet (I eat red meat only occasionally and mainly nurture my body with raw fruits, vegetables and fish) has improved my life so much.
After my morning routine and some tasty local breakfast I meet my driver for a tour of the monasteries. First one and the one that will visit me in my dreams many nights after seeing it, is Thikse Monastery. This is the largest monastery in central Ladakh, it is located at 3600 mt and has dramatic views on the Indus Valley. It is part of the Gelug section of Tibetan Buddhism.
It is about 12 stories tall and it is a complex building of intricate little alleys, stupas, statues and houses. As I slowly venture higher and higher the views become more spectacular. The desert and Majestic mountains peak through the colorful columns of the temple making it a perfect window overlooking a peaceful valley.
Beautiful quotes by the Dalai Lama accompany my journey uphill towards the top of the monastery and fill me with positivity and gratitude.
“THE TRUE MEANING OF LIFE: We are visitors on this planet. We are here for ninety or one hindred years at the very most. During that period, we must try to do something good, something useful, with our lives. If you contribute to other people’s happiness, you will find the ture goal, the true meaning of life” His Holiness the XIVthe Dalai Lama
Once I arrive in the main square I take the stairs leading up to the biggest monastery and stop on the little porch to take my shoes off before entering. I see a couple of monks chatting outside with two men dressed in normal clothes. They seem to know each other. I smile and say hi, quietly take my shoes off and peak through the door. A dozen of monks are reciting their prayers. The quiet rythm of their chants puts me in a sort of trance, that I silently enjoy for a few minutes. I close my eyes and breath this peace around me.
As I open my eyes, one of the men approaches me and asks me if I would like to go inside. I notice there is a crew of what seems to be professional photographers and realize something special is happening at the monastery that day. I gladly take up the invitation and enter the monastery, where I sit along the wall, next to one of the photographers who is filming the monks. I find it interesting how modern technology in this occasion is not taking away from the traditional atmosphere of the place, but somehow blends in with it delicately.
Once back on the porch I find the smiling man and ask him what they are filming. “A documentary”, he says and hands me a paper cup with a steaming hot beverage. “ Butter tea” he says. I remember reading about butter tea in an article before coming to Ladakh and I am eager to try it. The name is definitely deceiving as you are expecting a tea flavor in your mouth, something smooth, whether sweet or more fruity. What you are not expecting, is the soupy taste it truly has. Butter tea is made of tea leaves, yak butter and salt and it is very high in calories, particularly suited for high altitude and cold temperatures. It is typical of the Himalaya regions and especially of Tibet, Buthan, Sikkim and Ladakh. Locals here drink it every day and and offer it to guests, which should be drinking it in sips, not all at once. After each sip, the host will refill your cup so it is always topped and full.
As I open my eyes, one of the men approaches me and asks me if I would like to go inside. I notice there is a crew of what seems to be professional photographers and realize something special is happening at the monastery that day. I gladly take up the invitation and enter the monastery, where I sit along the wall, next to one of the photographers who is filming the monks. I find it interesting how modern technology in this occasion is not taking away from the traditional atmosphere of the place, but somehow blends in with it delicately.
Once back on the porch I find the smiling man and ask him what they are filming. “A documentary”, he says and hands me a paper cup with a steaming hot beverage. “ Butter tea” he says. I remember reading about butter tea in an article before coming to Ladakh and I am eager to try it. The name is definitely deceiving as you are expecting a tea flavor in your mouth, something smooth, whether sweet or more fruity. What you are not expecting, is the soupy taste it truly has. Butter tea is made of tea leaves, yak butter and salt and it is very high in calories, particularly suited for high altitude and cold temperatures. It is typical of the Himalaya regions and especially of Tibet, Buthan, Sikkim and Ladakh. Locals here drink it every day and and offer it to guests, which should be drinking it in sips, not all at once. After each sip, the host will refill your cup so it is always topped and full.
As I take a first sip and allow my smiley friend to refill my cup right away, he goes on telling me his story. Him and his crew are filming the monastery to pay tribute to the monastery’s head lama, Ngawang Jamyang Jampa Stanzin Rinpoche (or, Thiksey Rinpoche for short). He is a well-respected, influential, and progressive voice within the Ladakhi community. He has worked tirelessly to improve the lives of Ladakhi lamas (monks) and lay people since his narrow escape from Tibet during the Chinese invasion. He has done many wonderful acts of charity for the community, from helping raising funds for little monks education and for local schools, to helping with preserving the tradition of the monasteries.
They call him Big Little Lama as he is little, but did great things!
They call him Big Little Lama as he is little, but did great things!
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| Home of one of the Lamas |
All the local temples will be full of hundreds of voices charmingly echoing mantras. “You are here during a very special week for us” he says. I feel priviledged to be here to witness this and I share my feelings with him. He replies that he noticed right away my curious eyes eager to explore. He asks me if I am here alone and I start telling him how I recently quit my job back in Italy as it didn’t resonate with me anymore and I was in search of something that was more meaningful to me, more fulfilling. I also tell him I am traveling this area of India and Rajasthan before heading to my yoga teacher training in Rishikesh, where I look forward to deepen my knowledge of yoga and meditation as this is a world that fascinates me a lot. He listens carefully to my story, from my description of the hectic life of luxury hospitality I experienced for a while in Rome, which led me to a sense of loss and feeling of non belonging, to the need of finding what my true purpose in life was and where my place in this world is. I go as far as telling him about the hardship of my life in the US and how the same feeling of non belonging made me leave my own country and come back 9 years later. He listens quietly, nodding every now and then. In the end he says: “We have to go through chaos in order to enjoy the calm and stillness of life”. “You are on the right path of trying to find your balance. Keep searching for it. The joy I see in your eyes is beautiful and will guide you the right way”
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| Young monks taking a break between chants |
The crew approaches my smiling friend and after apologizing for interrupting, asks what seem to be technical questions on how to film the next scene. I feel the need to think about what he said and to take in the energy of the monastery, so I thank him for the conversation, wish him luck with the documentary and head to the roof, where I know I will find the best and most quiet views of the valley.
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| Views from the rooftop of the monastery |
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